Evolution Range: Adventure and Misadventure

The Evolution range extends along the crest of the Sierra Nevada for a dozen or so miles, a massive rampart of granite in a remote and rugged area of Kings Canyon National Park. The range was named by Theodore Solomons who visited in 1895 and wrote: ‘I felt that here was a fraternity of Titans that in their naming should bear in common an august significance. And I could think of none more fitting to confer on it than the great evolutionists, so at one in their devotion to the sublime in nature’.  The centerpiece of the range, with an unmistakable shape, is Mt Darwin, flanked by Mt Mendel (named for Gregor Mendel of the pea experiments fame), Mt Haeckel (after German Ernst Haeckel, who coined many terms in biology - ecology and phylum, for example - and who was a staunch supporter of Darwin’s), Mount Wallace (after Alfred Russell Wallace, who independently came up with the idea of natural selection simultaneously with Darwin), Mount Lamarck (for Jean-Baptiste Lamarck, now remembered for his completely off-the-mark Theory of Inheritance of Acquired Characteristics, but who was actually the first to formulate any theory of evolution), and the unofficially named Mt Gould (after modern evolutionary biologist, Stephen Jay Gould).

Mt Darwin (left) and Mount Mendel (right)

Mountain Mendel (left) and Mount Gould (right)

Trip planning

As a biologist, I consider the theory of evolution as one of the greatest in science. As a climber, the Evolution Traverse, which follows the knife edge ridge line of many of these peaks, seldom falling below 13,000ft, is somewhat of a Holy Grail: an iconic climb made famous by the legendary feats of Peter Croft. Therefore, the idea of venturing into the shadow of these virtual deities, of possibly scaling their divine heights seemed a practically religious experience for an atheist biologist climber. When Alistair suggested this as a destination for our annual Sierra-sans-spawn climbing trip, I hastened to secure permits and child-care. These annual trips had become something planned with eager anticipation; a chance to decompress from family responsibilities and to reconnect with each other. Some couples take a cruise with relaxation and fine dining; we prefer a more active option….

On Thursday evening we set out from the east, bearing minimalist packs, ultralightweight gear and a small collection of climbing equipment. One thing that was not pared down ruthlessly, however, was the first aid kit. While researching and planning our route, I’d felt sick when viewing photos of rugged lofty ridgelines and seas of steep talus. It seemed almost certain that there would be some sort of injury to attend to during 5 days in this terrain – even if only blisters caused by Al’s new-out-of-the-box 5.10 guide tennies– so I had beefed up the medical supplies.

Laboring up the long sandy canyon towards Lamarck Col

After a number of false summits, we finally see the Col.

The route climbs around a permanent icefield to the Col on the left.

Midday on Friday found us atop Lamarck Col at almost 13,000ft, after a strenuous climb up a long sandy canyon and final talus slope. 

Al heading up the final talus slope

An icy wind swept around us as we gazed with awe for the first time down into Darwin Canyon and to Mounts Darwin, Mendel and Gould towering beyond. 

Jewels of lakes strung out along Darwin Canyon

Al at Lamarck Col, entering King' Canyon National Park, Mount Darwin and Mount Mendel in rear

It was a bit nippy....

A sign indicated that we were crossing into King’s Canyon National Park at last. It was a deliciously thrilling moment, with a sense of manifold possibilities before us. A long, rocky descent lead us to the bottom of Darwin Canyon and we clambered past a series of four lakes strung out like precious beads, turquoise and sapphire.  There was an intermittent trail connected by passage over assorted boulder fields and cliffs, but it was a relief to exit the canyon to the easier terrain of Darwin Bench. We eventually set up camp by a lake at the base of the Evolution Traverse, enjoying the splendid location, if not the arctic conditions.

Ice glazed the lake the following morning, marring reflections. Hot water leftover from the necessary coffee ritual froze within minutes. 

It felt good to move our stiff cold bodies up the steep but straightforward beginning of the traverse, to climb toward the kind kiss of the sun.

Moving up easy ground at start of Evolution traverse.

We climbed to the high point visible

A couple of joyous hours later, we reached the top of the ridge and looked down across the Evolution Basin to the west, and along the dragon’s back of the traverse. With delight, I climbed atop a small tower and posed for a photo. 

We enjoyed a snack on our lofty perch. However, this was merely a reconnoiter. We thought it prudent to retreat before encountering any ground that would be too difficult to reverse; our real climbing objective lay on Mt Haeckel further north.

After assiduously avoiding loose rock on the descent, picking our way with great care, we were nearly down. About 400ft above our camp, Al stepped on an innocuous gravel-strewn slab - the most banal of hiking hazards - and slipped. His left ankle gave way with a couple of pops and he collapsed in pain and shock.