Valley Autumn Oddball Odyssey once again - Indian Canyon

With the rivers of flaming aspens snaking ever further down the mountainsides and icy mornings in the high country, it was the season to turn to Yosemite Valley, where T-shirt weather still reigned. What to do there? Some online digging revealed a few scant references to Indian Canyon, which leads from the back of Yosemite Village to the valley rim some 3000 feet above, to the east of Yosemite Falls. It had once been the route that the Native Americans used to get to Tuolumne Meadows from the Valley, and in the 1860s, sported a toll route for horses and mules that switchbacked to its way to the top. But recent reports were nonexistent. It sounded like a perfect challenge for a Valley Autumn Oddball Odyssey.

Aspens at Convict Lake

Indian Canyon

Al and I set off at the crack of nine after cooking breakfast at the Church Bowl picnic area where the entertainment had been a helicopter med-evac in the meadow behind Yosemite Village. We hoped it was not a bad omen! The lower reaches of the canyon were unremarkable, but after a time, we spotted a thick telecommunications cable and what appeared to be a hint of trail. This turned out to be the phone cable from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows, and the trail was for accessing the cable. When the canyon deepened, a series of ladders and cables lead up the cliff faces. This turned out to be the easy part. 

First ladder with handy cable

Coming up the second ladder

Further up, the trail petered out. From time to time, it looked like someone had gone before us. Or perhaps it was something? Copious piles of bear scat and several very large pawprints with claw marks pointed to the latter possibility. 

Just one of the many piles of bear scat we saw.

As the angle steepened, we scrambled up talus along the stream. For a while, it was quite pleasant. 

Pleasant scrambling

Canyon walls narrowing in

But then we hit the willows. There was no option but to bushwhack up third class terrain which was definitely not white-collar hiking! There may or may not have been some decidedly blue-collar language....

Al headed for some jungle warfare

Alistair suddenly let out a yelp. "What's the matter?". He turned to me, and pulled a couple of inches of sharp stick out of his nose. There were a couple of drops of blood. Then he pulled out a second only slightly smaller piece. There was a torrent of blood. I quickly handed him my trusty bandanna to staunch the flow. It soon became obvious that whatever damage the stick has inflicted up his poor schnoz was not about to quickly clot, so we fastened on the bandanna under the injury using the strap of his sunhat and kept going. 

Improvised first aid with a bandanna and sunhat strap. Good thing Al's wearing a red shirt with all that blood!

At times, we managed to escape the brush by scrabbling up steep and loose dirt slopes. Also definitely not white-collar hiking. It was difficult to know which option was better. Progress through the forest was slowed by the many dead trees that had fallen down in recent times. The effects of drought and the bark beetle infestation were stark. 

A few years back, this sort of terrain would have been easy to get through but now it's a maze of downed trees.

Alistair was constantly consulting his phone to report on progress, which was often painfully slow. "20% of the way" was not hugely encouraging when I was already feeling tired. The climb took considerably longer than the 3 hours we anticipated, and by the time we reached the lip of the canyon, it was about 1:30 PM. We were covered in dirt (and Alistair's case, blood), scratched up, and had hair and even underwear full of debris. Fortunately, there was a delightful lunch spot next to the stream where we could clean up and refill water. 

Lunch spot

Somewhat refreshed, and looking slightly less frightful, we cut cross country to intercept the trail from North Dome which seemed like a veritable superhighway after the canyon. I kept asking Al if he would prefer to detour across the downed trees or through the manzanita scrub. Strangely, he wasn't keen. 

Made it to the superhighway!

The trail headed over another hill and wound down along the rim to Yosemite Point. It had been years since we'd been up there, and the view did not disappoint. A climber lounged at the top of Lost Arrow Spire in the sun. We wondered whether he was about to set up the classic Tyrolean traverse back to the rim. Far below lay Yosemite Village and our car. The route was the Yosemite Falls trail which wound in endless switchbacks between immense granite walls. 

Half Dome and Glacier Point on the opposite side of the Valley

Looking west down the Valley

Climber on Lost Arrow Spire with switchbacks of the Yosemite Falls trail behind.

I had stupidly neglected to pack my hiking poles, so I took the descent approach of knocking back a handful of ibuprofen and skipping down as fast as possible to minimize the pain. A few hours later, after slogging down relentless switchbacks of sand-covered rocks, an ill-advised detour in search of a misremembered climbing route descent trail, and an utterly malicious mid-descent climb, we were all of a couple of final zigzags from the valley floor in the late afternoon with trembling legs and aching knees, some serious take-no-shit expressions on our faces. As a group of young people passed us on the way up, perhaps 5 minutes into their hike, we heard a lass exclaim plaintively, "I didn't know there would be so much up!"

Nooooo - not more uphill!!

Al descends one of approximately 10,000 rocky switchbacks. Ouch.

Looking back up at where we had come from - Yosemite Point top right. Only a trickle of water in Yosemite Falls.

Al and I were still chortling over a most excellent post-adventure nosh-up of pizza and beer at the Deck in Curry Village. Was a poke in the nose with a sharp stick better or worse than one in the eye? we wondered. Yosemite had delivered yet again.

A view of our route from the walk back to the car. Indian Canyon is the gully on the right, Yosemite Point is centre, and Yosemite Falls trail goes down the big diagonal ledges on the left. According to Strava, the total distance was 12 miles with over 6000ft elevation gain (which seems high but my legs are in agreement!)

Yesss!!!!

If you're going to do something stupid, be smart about it.

With the sickening graunch of granite on gravel, the dishwasher-sized block on which I had gingerly stepped, gave way and went crashing down the slope towards the glacier. I scrambled to find a solid foothold, heart pounding, but the whole slope seemed to be moving. Alistair glanced down from above and casually remarked " You shouldn't have stood on that". I spat out a tart response and felt the prick of hot tears. 

That was it. We were traversing the moraine above Palisade Glacier for far too long. It was bad ground turning to worse. Our immediate objective, Glacier Notch, was still a fair distance off up even less appealing terrain. And the climb proper didn't even start until above there. This was no place for a person of draft horse inclination and ability who found moving over the endless crazy jumble of boulders, unstable rocks, and loose scree at well over 12,000ft to be a tad taxing, to put it mildly. I had rushed directly from taking a beating on a white water paddling trip to backpacking into our base camp the day before, thinking, foolishly, that I could have my cake and eat it too (paddle some rapids AND climb a peak!) My sore body was having other ideas. I glanced back across the cirque, thinking that reversing my steps down and across the gnarl would be even worse. My fun tickets were well and truly used up.

Looking at the moraine traverse to Glacier Notch, the low point in the ridge in the centre. Mount Gayley is on the left and Mount Sill in the centre.

Palisade glacier below Polemonium Peak, Middle Palisade and Thunderbolt peaks

 "Guys, this is far enough for me!" I called to Wendy and Alistair  - above, as always. It has been like that the whole way across the moraine – a futile struggle to keep up mixed with the nagging suspicion that I was weighing down their ambitions, slowing their momentum like the old kids’ bike trailer I used to tow, the one that would make literal mountains out of molehills.

Alistair in his natural environment - way ahead as usual!

 As we regrouped at a slightly more stable position, Alistair dropped the bombshell. We had started too late, underestimating the complexity of the approach, and we were taking too long. There was no way for him and Wendy to safely climb the Swiss Arrete on Mount Sill, the route that was intended to be Wendy’s coveted first technical route on a 14,000ft peak, and to complete the complex descent safely. Although I had suspected as much, Wendy was taken completely off guard. Plan B was my original objective, the non-technical unroped scramble up Mount Gayley, a left instead of a right turn from Glacier Notch. It was a wholly inadequate consolation prize. Disappointment was etched in Wendy's face in the harsh sun of the high alpine. She and Al were laden with heavy climbing gear. “Taking your rack and rope for a walk” was exactly no one’s idea of a fun day.  I felt terrible. 

The day before on the hike in, we had seen a helicopter buzzing around one of the Palisade peaks, making at least three trips, two of which returned with a litter suspended below. This alpine area, with the largest concentration of peaks over 14,000ft in the Sierra clustered around several glaciers, was no place for mistakes. “If you're going to do something stupid, then be smart about it", Wendy said, quoting from a film about crazy backcountry ski descents. In other words, sometimes it's OK to back off. And this was one of those times. 

Rescue helicopter with a litter suspended below.

"Be back in a couple of hours. Wait for us, though, it's not safe to go back alone". They dropped their climbing gear and were off.

It was a chilly wait in the shadows at nearly 13,000ft. I sat with helmet on behind the biggest boulder I could find in the hope that it might provide some shelter from rockfall - ominous rumbles reverberating around the cirque were a reminder of that danger. The unused rope provided insulation from the seeping chill of the granite. I stared intently at the icebergs in the glacial lake far below – were they moving or was it my imagination? Surprisingly, birds flitted about constantly. What species were they? What did they eat up here? I had no idea. The afternoon sun illuminated a rich palette of colours in the walls of the Palisades. Time passed.

Waiting

Many colours of rock

The others returned safely after a successful summit and we started down. The moraine was interminable, exhausting in the constant decision-making. One casual hop from boulder to boulder for the “mountain goats” was an excruciating sequence of workaround moves for me that added incrementally to a frustrating day. One butt slide resulted in the inevitable tearing of fabric as the seat of my pants gave out. My hiking poles clattered uselessly but I was loathe to abandon these physical and emotional crutches. I threw them down in a fit of pique and sat down to cry. Of course, wallowing in self-pity wasn’t the solution, so it was try again…and again …and again.

Endless bloody moraine!

I'll be needing a new pair of pants

It was a silent descent with none of the usual banter and tired exuberance that follows a successful climb. Emotions were palpable and we all wanted space and solitude. At camp finally, the mood was subdued.  Sam Mack Meadow, nestled snugly in a cradle of granite, provided ample opportunity for reflection as the sun set, the alpenglow burned and the stars came out. We slunk off to our sleeping bags wordlessly. Surely tomorrow would be a better day.

Mounts Gayley and Sill to the left with the Palisade crest from the descent.

The lovely Sam Mack Meadow

Last light on Mount Sill from the campsite

And it was. A fresh start. We talked over our mistakes, sipping our hot drinks as the sun inched towards the meadow. 

Morning reflections in Sam Mack Meadow

Not researching the route well enough. 

Starting too late. 

Relying on one member of the party to have all the pertinent information. 

Trying the approach late in the season on a low snow year without the easier passage up the glacier. 

I had learned not to be pressured to go into terrain where I don’t belong for the sake of fitting in with the group. But whatever our missteps, at least we had been smart about doing something stupid. As we retraced our steps to the trailhead far below, Alistair and Wendy plotted a rematch. I just smiled - they could have it, but without me. 

Temple Crag towering above the glacial Second Lake on the walk out down the North Fork of Big Pine Creek

Autumn colours

The crew - now wiser!

Lofty ambitions for a Luddite: Matterhorn Peak

“If you love getting lost, traversing giant rocks for miles, scrambling, and asking yourself if you actually enjoy hiking, this “choose your own adventure” trail is for you!”

 - All Trails review of Matterhorn Peak

Mid June 2022: I slumped over on a rock, nauseous, heart pounding. Only a few days after arriving from almost two years at sea level, the mile amble to Heart Lake at 9000 feet in the Mammoth Lakes basin had me utterly beat.

Almost exactly three months later, I scrambled over the final few meters of narrow granite ridge to the vertiginous summit of Matterhorn Peak, weary after the six hour hike, but feeling strong. What a contrast!

The summer had been one of incrementally more difficult challenges, spurred on by friends in my mountain community and beyond. “You should do Matterhorn Peak next”, encouraged Matthias in early July. I looked it up on my go to online resource, All Trails.

“Pretty gnarly”

“By 1 PM we had not summitted” 

“This trail sucked out my soul, and not in a good way” (is there ever a good way of sucking out a soul?)

 “This baby was BANANAS”

But also:

“One of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done”....“awesome”.... “gorgeous” .....“incredible”

Starting at 7000 feet and topping out over 12,000 feet, over 7 miles, the majority off established trails, the hike was clearly a lofty ambition. Furthermore, a repeated theme in the All Trails reviews was navigational difficulties, even with the help of GPS and All Trails tracks:

 “The trail basically disappears, it’s navigable up to a point....the point we turned around. However that pretty purple line got drawn on AllTrails is a straight up lie.”

“ We lost the trail after the big scree field and had difficulties after our GPS failed in the middle of the hike“

I had noticed more and more people in the backcountry peering at GPS tracks on their phone for inspiration and guidance, as a quick and easy substitute for preparation and observation. But I’ve always been a bit of a Luddite. With my luck, my phone battery would die right when needed most, and besides, as a veritable old fart, it was beyond my technical ability to wrangle this information on a small screen with my stumpy fingers and I was too embarrassed to ask for help.

So I went old-school. I found an excellent trip report with detailed directions and photos, read it obsessively and printed it out along with a detailed map with the route marked. 

Old school maps and notes

A summer of preparation, a rest day beforehand, a Matthias-style hearty bacon and eggs breakfast in the predawn hours, and I was all set. The sky lightened to reveal mountain profiles softened by smoke as I drove north to Bridgeport. However, the air seemed clear as I approached the Twin Lakes trailhead. As I opened the car door, was relieved to find that there was no hint of campfire in the crisp air.

Smoke haze over Twin Lakes in the early morning

The first hour passed quickly on a switch-backing trail, a gentle introduction to the day. Once in Horse Creek, the sun finally hit and the layers came off. Now above the smoke haze, Matterhorn Peak, the highest of the aptly named Sawtooth Range and the northern terminal of the "High Sierra", came into view. It seemed an impossible distance above.

After the established trail petered out a few miles in, I worked my way up Horse Creek, following the path of least resistance, and finding the inevitable use trails, stopping from time to time to refer to my printed notes. At the head of the valley, it was time to ascend talus slopes to Horse Creek Pass. I spotted the rock formation to aim for, spied a feasible looking line and began the long trudge up.

Endless talus approaching Horse Creek Pass

A young man sat resting, exhausted, halfway up, his companion looking on with some concern. I stopped to chat as they were the first people I had seen all day. They had come directly from low elevation and the youngster was struggling with the altitude. They were considering turning back. His friend, a fit looking chap in his thirties with a European accent, asked if I was headed to the summit and if I was alone. When I replied in the affirmative, he looked concerned and said “The route finding gets a bit tricky up there – do you have a GPS?” I responded that I was running a paper map on an iBrain. He looked less than impressed, and proceeded to show me a photo on his phone which essentially a much smaller version of the large picture I had printed out, and to warn me about straying into more difficult terrain.  I appreciated his help, but wondered whether Alistair would have been treated in the same way. However, his skepticism was galvanising rather than discouraging, and I continued upwards with renewed determination.

Halfway up to the pass, looking back into Horse Creek

On finally reaching Horse Creek Pass, the summit of Matterhorn peak was at last visible above an intimidating steep and sandy gully. It looked like a time consuming, gut busting, interminable slog. And it was -the final mile took almost 2 hours of burning lungs and legs. 

Matterhorn Peak at the centre top and the dreaded sandy slope

The route went up the side of a prominent gendarme then traversed to the final ridge. This is looking down from the gendarme to Horse Creek Pass at the patch of snow

The final third class ridge from the top of the gendarme

After much slipping and sliding, I reached the solid rock of the final ridge and enjoyed some third class scrambling to the summit. 

Third class summit ridge

I stood on the dining table sized summit block....and promptly sat back down feeling quite dizzy after seeing over the edge. What a lunch spot! I decided that this "choose your own adventure trail" was indeed for me.

Pretty happy to be on top!

Summit view to the east

To the north, the Yosemite backcountry is a much more gentle landscape of granite domes and canyons.

Got a bit dizzy looking over the edge!

Little bit of downclimbing to be done

On the descent, the loose sandy slopes were much easier to negotiate, although route finding through the talus seemed even more challenging. Use trails appeared, headed in the wrong direction, and then petered out entirely. By this point, my phone battery was on its last legs, and GPS would have been worthless so the iBrain had a good workout. I had taken note of salient features on the way up and used this knowledge to point me in the right direction in the complex terrain. 

Amazing coloured rocks near Horse Creek Pass

Lower Horse Creek

Pleasant forest and stream close to the end

The Luddite method eventually brought me back to the established trail, down the inevitable painfully gentle switchbacks with the car in sight (veritable torture!) and through the last footsore stagger to crack open a celebratory Gatorade (as a beer would have pole-axed me - a brew came later) at the trailhead. Aaahhh. As I swigged the oddly cherry-flavoured electrolyte brew, I pondered what review I might leave on All Trails. Maybe something like:

“A challenging day to a lofty summit for a Luddite draft horse armed with a paper map and an iBrain”