On a recent stop at our favourite water hole, Rainbow Pools just outside Yosemite, I was about to clamber up to the top of the Big Rock for the ritual leap, when I was stopped by a young rapper dude. He inquired whether I was planning on jumping off, and so I replied that I was, as was my habit each visit. "Whoa, yo bad-ass mama!" he exclaimed.
The phrase sprang to mind again en route to the high country last weekend. It had been planned as a girls' backpacking trip, by one by one, friends had dropped out and now it was just Leigh and I driving past the same spot. Leigh, of all people, is seriously bad-ass, earning a black belt in Tae Kwon Do **post-kids** among many other accomplishments. And she grew up being dragged off to the mountains by an insanely (mis)-adventurous father to boot. We had been on plenty of Girl Scout-y sorts of trips with the girls, but this was our first time venturing off alone. The plan was for a quickie peak-bagging trip: a hike into Young Lake out of Tuolumne Meadows via Ragged Peak, then a run up to the top of Mt Conness the following day and directly back home. Forecast looked pretty good with only 20% chance of showers, and we were travelling light, borrowing Al's ultralight gear once again. What could possibly go wrong?
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'Bad-ass mamas' |
We set off from Lembert Dome in the early afternoon under smoky skies courtesy of the enormous forest fire further north near Tahoe. A few puffy white clouds floated around, but nothing too ominous. After a couple of hours, we left the trail, headed up to the saddle below Ragged Peak and dumped our packs to scramble to the pointy top.
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Ragged Peak from Young Lake, saddle at the center. |
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Heading off trail toward the saddle, mid-left skyline. Still blue sky... |
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At the saddle, back clouds gathering |
There was a distant rumble. We pretended it was a passing plane and started on up. There were three more rumbles in close succession. Perhaps we could at least get to the summit ridge and not go on the very pointy bit? There was a flash and immense clap. We ran down tout de suite. Peak No.1; FAIL!
From the saddle, it was a steep drop straight down to lower Young lake which we bypassed in favour of the smaller middle lake.
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Lower Young Lake from the saddle, Mt Conness in background |
After we had got ourselves sorted out with the ultralight shelter up and were about to get dinner started, the heavens opened and the sound and light show began in earnest. Apparently, all bets on the weather are off in the Sierra Nevada are off this year. We hunkered down in the ultralight 1 person shelter as puddles, then lakes of water formed around it: we had pitched the thing on a typical Sierra campsite consisting on a lovely flat gravel area covering underlying granite slabs. Terrific territory for drainage....right under the shelter!
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The ultralight shelter sagging in the rain and hail... |
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Trying to fit into the 1 person shelter with aid of the space blanket |
The rain changed to pinging hail, and so we took the opportunity to retreat under a space blanket that Leigh had had the foresight to bring which we rigged in the trees. It might have be been slightly drier but by that time everything was damp so it was difficult to tell. Certainly, it was quite convenient for doing dishes as the the water poured off directly into the pot. Eventually, Leigh decided that the ultralight shelter might be slightly less damp rigged actually IN the tree, so we got cracking like good girl scouts and did some shelter innovation and possibly improvement. Again, it was hard to tell as everything was wet.
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Leigh's cosy 'tree-pitched' shelter |
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Staying not quite soaked under space blanket tarp |
Amid an intense storm, we gave up jumping into each other's laps in fright, and clambered, shivering, into clammy sleeping bags for the night, Leigh in the shelter partially encased in a rubbish bag, and me in the bivy sack under the space blanket canopy. The storm had moved away from our lake basin and was apparently hammering the other side of the ridge - the flashes of lightning were like the end of a 4th of July fireworks display in black and white instead of colour. Strangely, though, we could hear no thunder. It was a cozy night. We both managed to avoid hypothermia (blue foam is remarkably warm to sleep under when soggy down isn't doin' it for you, and rubbish bags work well) and electrocution, so we couldn't complain.
Leigh tweaked my toes at some ungodly hour of the morning and sat up all perky and ready to climb Mt Conness. She really is the Ever-ready bunny in human form. Bad-ass! In contrast, I was feeling groggy and damp. Ugh. Coffee, please. The lighter and stove weren't happy with being abandoned in the storm, but with Leigh's storm matches and some TLC (we love you, stove, we really do), breakfast and a brew were soon going and so were we.
The day improved as we headed up towards Mt Conness, past an unusual body of water that we termed 'Mitochondrial Lake' which featured a very playful coyote.
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Mitochondrial Lake |
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Leigh near the top of the steep climb above Mitochondrial Lake |
A steep climb took us up to the 'plateau' next to Mt Conness, where the accumulated night's hail turned to a couple of inches of ordinary snow. It certainly felt icy when the wind blew - a far cry from the intense heat of the last Sierra trip only 3 weeks earlier.
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Approaching Mt Conness across snowy plateau |
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Flower poking up through the snow |
We reached the east side of the plateau and were treated to superb views of the Twenty lakes basin area behind Saddlebag lake.
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Leigh above the Twenty Lakes basin |
The last couple of hundred of feet to the summit of Conness are narrow and exposed although very well-constructed; I had descended this route before without trouble. However, this time the narrow steps and ledges above large drop-offs were covered in slippery, melting snow, and I was shod in some cheap boots with bad traction (in aid of a dicey ankle) instead of grippy approach shoes. We very carefully climbed about half way up the last section, then I decided that if going up seemed sketchy then going down would be even worse... so we turned around and teetered our way back down along the ridge. Peak No. 2 : FAIL!
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Beating a teetering retreat down the slippery summit ridge of Mt Conness |
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Large face on Conness. |
So back down to the soggy gear at camp we trotted and out to the car via a rather tedious trail, as more clouds gathered for the day's storm. It had been a memorable trip: I'd learned a few things, not least of which was the importance of having someone who can keep their chin up when things don't go according to plan....and who can spot you a pair of lacy knickers when yours are soaked! A true friend indeed. Thanks, Leigh, let's do it again sometime. Apart from the cold and wet part.....